Italian wines
Tour of Italy with Nicola Biscardo at Vinum55 in Chandler
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Nicola was here from Italy at Vinum55 last week providing an overview of six Italian and Sicilian wines. He began the evening talking about various key points: 1) how Italy only became a country in 1861. 2)Discussing Sicilian wines verses Italian wines in terms of terroir. 3) How the overall geography of Italy kept communities separate from each other’s customs, language, foods and wines. And lastly, how wines should be classified as industrial wine verses artisanal wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We started out with a 2025 Marino Abate Gillo “Ariddu” from Scilly. This white wine stole the show with a bouquet that was extremely strong with aromatics of minerality, orange blossom, sage and thyme. It was crisp and acidic; it was kept in check. Nicola called it “Italy in a glass”. This tied receiving my highest marks for the evening with one other red wine having hit all the marks on the eyes, nose, taste and finish. A beautiful wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second wine from Mt Etna was the 2024 Cantine Patria Etna Bianco “Feminina” from the Northeast portion of the island. In order to be called “Etna” it must be grown between 1,800 to 3,000 feet elevation in almost black soil from the volcano. The wine is a Chardonnay that was elegant, fermented in both barrel and stainless steel. It had a subtle bitterness at the finish.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We then moved to Italy proper on the east side towards the Adriatic waters. This was the 2025 Vigna Madre Pecorino Kriya. The winds off the sea decrease the temperature which provided a good acidity in the wine. It was soft and had a lovely mouth feel.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Moving to D ’Abruzzo, we tasted the 2024 Vigna Madre Montepulciano D’ Abruzzo Kriya that Nicola lovingly referred to as Italy’s everyday wine. It inherited this nickname as it is low in acidity, dark color and can pair nicely with just about everything. The finish was subtle and could see how this could be enjoyed with so many foods.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2022 Cantine Patria Etna Rosso “Feminina” took us back to Scilly. This being the “red wine” of wine being from the high elevation of Etna. Called the Barolo of the South with its elegance from aromatics to taste. For me an odd flavor at the finish, but all the other attributes were spot on.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Here was my other top-rated wine, this being a red 2024 Marino Abate Nero D’Avola “Lapa”. Considered the most popular varietal in Scilly. With older vines and managing the vineyards, they only get 2 or 3 clusters per vine. The wine was very generous in aromatics and taste. High in antioxidants and with tight tannins. An excellent representation of Nero D’Avola and purchased a few bottles at the conclusion of evening.
Nicola Biscardo’s wines this evening were those of very small vintners which banded together and cooperatively sell their wines. They are not available in retail shops. Should you get a chance to hear Nicola speak about the wines, he is wildly enthusiastic, speaks with a charming Italian accent and as a salesperson, believes only the best wines come from Italy! A fun evening and some very tasty wines.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly