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2011 Campo Viejo Rioja Gran Reserva
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background on Rioja Wines
The gold lace/netting originated in 1858 called malla. It was developed as an anti-counterfeiting and fraud device. In the mid-19th century, Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga (the Marqués de Riscal) after a stint in Bordeaux learning winemaking returned home with his newfound knowledge. Key was the use of oak barrel aging at his winery in Elciego. This rocketed the quality of Rioja wines. They became wildly successful winning awards from around the world and the Spanish royalty. His newfound success drew fraudsters and counterfeiters who would buy empty Marqués de Riscal bottles, fill them with inexpensive table wine, re-cork them and sell as authentic bottles of wine.
The gold wiring/mesh was invented in 1858 by the Marqués having it tightly wound the bottle, making it impossible to remove the cork or open the wine without cutting the wiring/mesh. This “tamper resistant” approached allowed those getting the wine was genuine.
To protect his brand’s reputation, the Marqués invented gold wire netting in 1858. The wire was woven so tightly around the bottle that it was impossible to remove the cork or open the wine without permanently cutting the mesh. This provided consumers with a tamper-evident seal, ensuring the wine inside was genuine. This then became the symbol of award-winning wines from Marqués de Riscal and easy to identify them. Other producers adopted this successful “cage” technique, and it became synonymous with high end Rioja wines. Today it is just a reminder honoring their heritage and aesthetic classic packaging.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Rioja wines are dark, mature and luscious in a unique fashion. First on the eyes this is a dark brooding wine in the glass. Aromas waft up to the senses of plum, smoky tobacco and dark cherries. On the palate the wine is complex with striking flavors of ripe plums, dark cherries, with a smokiness following closely behind. On the finish, a hint of soft vanilla and mellow silky tannins finish off each sip.
The wine came in at 13.5% alcohol. Gran Reserva Rioja wines must age for a minimum of five years with at least two years in the bottle.
This wine was appropriately aged in the cellar and enjoy this evening as a 2011.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The meal this evening was baked chicken cheese enchiladas. The prep work was done in advance and ready to bake as we wanted to watch the 49’er football game. The ingredients include sour cream, salsa, cheddar cheese, shredded chicken cooked in salsa, corn kernels, cumin, dried oregano, cayenne pepper, kosher salt, black pepper and thinly sliced scallions. The ingredients were wrapped in whole wheat low carb tortillas and then baked. Served with additional salsa on top.
This Rioja wine worked well with the chicken enchiladas with it lively fruit and acidity matching up with the tomato and chili sauce and spices. Without a heavy oak influence the wine cut through the cheese.
A great food and wine pairing this evening.
The Winery in Rioja, Spain
Map from Wine Tourism Spain https://winetourismspain.com/wine-regions/rioja/rioja-wine-map/
From the map you can see the location of Rioja in the northeastern Spain.
Previously, I wrote about Campo Viejo Rioja Gran Reserva having to age minimally two years in the barrel and five years being released. The Camp Viejo winery was built in 2001 and everything from the beginning was constructed on the principles of sustainability from their enology to their architecture. Below is picture of their winery.
There is not much on their website mentioning the winemaker, acreage, etc. One thing that they do mention is wanting the public to come and visit their operation.
Making such delicious wines for them does not require details on a website, just for you to enjoy each sip of this layered and structure wine.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2016 Vall de Llach idus from Priorat – Always a Favorite
Where and what is Priorat?
Priorat is an area about 2 ½ hour drive west/southwest of Barcelona. Priorat consists of eleven small villages in the southern portion of Catalonia in the province of Tarragona. In comparison to the country, it is an extremely small region. Priorat is a Denominació d’Origen Qualificada (DOQa), in the southwest of Catalonia. It is one of only two wine regions in Spain to qualify as DOCa, the highest qualification level for a wine region according to Spanish wine regulations, alongside the well-known Rioja DOCa.
(Map from Quintin Sadler’s Wine Page, https://quentinsadler.wordpress.com/)
Brief History and Background of Priorat
This wine area has over two thousand years of history from the Romans. Due to the proximity of the Iberian Peninsula, it was controlled by the Moors until the twelfth century. In this area you get a fabulous combination of architecture from the Moorish influence as well as Romanesque.
The Priorat district gets its name from the Carthusian order who founded a monastery in the region in the end of the 12th century. Interestingly, the most changes have transpired during the last 30-40 years. Winemakers in the region upgraded their methods and equipment and began a modernization and professional approach to wine.
(Picture from https://vinenvacances.com/)
Weather, climate and soil are the major components of this region. The wine area receives 3000 hours of sunshine and roughly 15 inches of rainfall per year. The soil in the area is rich in hard slate, but the roots can go through seeking underground water. A lot of the vineyards in the area follow the terrain with terraces and steep slopes.
One of the two grapes which are used in this 2016 Vall Llach “Idus” is Granacha (Grenache) which is the lesser grape. One of the distinct traits of the grapes from the region is its ability to produce a strong, yet fresh wine. The second grape varietal used in the making of Idus and the predominate percentage is Cariñena and in the USA it is called Carignan. Carignan grows very well in the drier regions of California like the Central Valley and Sierra foothills.
Typical wines from the area have intense red coloration, with aromas of ripe fruit with a strong mineral trait from the slate vineyards. In the mouth a fleshy, strong flavoring with tannins being present are common. They present black plum, licorice and have a black pepper spice quality, coupled with berry and chocolate with a smoky scent. Cariñena is a unique black skinned grape varietal. It typically is used in blending in many wines.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2016 Idus is multifaceted, with alluring aromas of red forest fruit, fleshy black plums, with hints of forest herbs, wood smoke and dark minerals. Wide on the palate, the wine is both powerful and fresh for an old-vine Priorat; displaying good acidity, round tannins and an incredibly long finish. The percentage mix is 90% Cariñena and 10% Granacha. A dark color and medium to medium heavy viscosity is present. You immediately pick up on the palate, wood smoke from cedar and the mineral traces from the slate. It is what I describe as a representation of “old world” wine. Powerful with enough acidity to give an edge, but with round tannins so as not to overwhelm one’s senses. Together they provide a long and satisfying finish. On the label it states this wine can age up to 30 years with proper storage. The wine is almost “blackish” in color with just a slight deep purple rim. This is a very strong wine and recommended to be enjoyed with food.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a thick cut boneless pork chop, first browned then baked. Topped with Mama’s Hatch Salsa from New Mexico which added a tasty finish to the pork. Accompanied by asparagus with sautéed in butter. Also sautéed gnocchi with butter and topped with grated Parmesan cheese.
Conclusion
I hope you enjoy the side trip to Priorat as this growing region is extremely well-known in wine circles and the grape varietals Granacha (Grenache in USA) and Cariñena (Carignan) are extremely tasty and wonderful grapes grown both in Priorat and the USA. I have for years now always kept wine from the Priorat region in the cellar for the uniqueness, quality and delightful expression of the local area.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
Tour of Italy with Nicola Biscardo at Vinum55 in Chandler
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Nicola was here from Italy at Vinum55 last week providing an overview of six Italian and Sicilian wines. He began the evening talking about various key points: 1) how Italy only became a country in 1861. 2)Discussing Sicilian wines verses Italian wines in terms of terroir. 3) How the overall geography of Italy kept communities separate from each other’s customs, language, foods and wines. And lastly, how wines should be classified as industrial wine verses artisanal wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We started out with a 2025 Marino Abate Gillo “Ariddu” from Scilly. This white wine stole the show with a bouquet that was extremely strong with aromatics of minerality, orange blossom, sage and thyme. It was crisp and acidic; it was kept in check. Nicola called it “Italy in a glass”. This tied receiving my highest marks for the evening with one other red wine having hit all the marks on the eyes, nose, taste and finish. A beautiful wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second wine from Mt Etna was the 2024 Cantine Patria Etna Bianco “Feminina” from the Northeast portion of the island. In order to be called “Etna” it must be grown between 1,800 to 3,000 feet elevation in almost black soil from the volcano. The wine is a Chardonnay that was elegant, fermented in both barrel and stainless steel. It had a subtle bitterness at the finish.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We then moved to Italy proper on the east side towards the Adriatic waters. This was the 2025 Vigna Madre Pecorino Kriya. The winds off the sea decrease the temperature which provided a good acidity in the wine. It was soft and had a lovely mouth feel.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Moving to D ’Abruzzo, we tasted the 2024 Vigna Madre Montepulciano D’ Abruzzo Kriya that Nicola lovingly referred to as Italy’s everyday wine. It inherited this nickname as it is low in acidity, dark color and can pair nicely with just about everything. The finish was subtle and could see how this could be enjoyed with so many foods.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2022 Cantine Patria Etna Rosso “Feminina” took us back to Scilly. This being the “red wine” of wine being from the high elevation of Etna. Called the Barolo of the South with its elegance from aromatics to taste. For me an odd flavor at the finish, but all the other attributes were spot on.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Here was my other top-rated wine, this being a red 2024 Marino Abate Nero D’Avola “Lapa”. Considered the most popular varietal in Scilly. With older vines and managing the vineyards, they only get 2 or 3 clusters per vine. The wine was very generous in aromatics and taste. High in antioxidants and with tight tannins. An excellent representation of Nero D’Avola and purchased a few bottles at the conclusion of evening.
Nicola Biscardo’s wines this evening were those of very small vintners which banded together and cooperatively sell their wines. They are not available in retail shops. Should you get a chance to hear Nicola speak about the wines, he is wildly enthusiastic, speaks with a charming Italian accent and as a salesperson, believes only the best wines come from Italy! A fun evening and some very tasty wines.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
S-K-Y-H-A-V-E-N Vineyards and Winery – 2023 Cabernet Franc
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I had the opportunity to taste the 2023 Cabernet Franc, a Gold Medal winner at SF Chronicle wine competition at a recent visit with them. Left the winery with a purchase of a bottle to try with food at home. This wine on the eyes again provided a cavernous darkness in color and held all the varietal characteristics of both old world and new world combined. Pyrazines were minimal with only the exquisite taste of the fruit being presented. Aged 18 months in neutral oak. This wine also won a Gold Medal at the 2026 Arizona Governor’s Cup and “Judge’s Choice” award. An excellent representation of Cabernet Franc with 13.1% alcohol and available at $38/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Tonight’s dinner was a slow cooker red wine braised beef short ribs. It is made with red wine, garlic, herbs and mushrooms. The ribs were first browned/braised on the skillet then placed in the slow cooker. Then onions and mushrooms were also browned with oregano, thyme, rosemary and marjoram to create the sauce. Then the sauce was poured over the ribs in the slow cooker. Bay leaves were then added. It then cooked for 8-9 hours.
The Cabernet Franc wine was chosen as it makes an ideal pairing with the wine’s acidity and structured tannins. The tannins cut through the fat of the beef counterbalanced with the dark fruit, pyrazines and earthy notes of the sauce. The fruit notes of dark berries, roasted bell pepper, subtle smokiness or sweet pipe tobacco resonated with the aromatics, herbs and red-wine reduction of the dish.
Accompanying by halved small Yukon Gold potatoes, roasted and topped with grated Parmesan cheese. Also, a fresh garden salad was served.
A very solid and delicious food and wine pairing this evening.
The Winery
Picture by SKYHAVEN Vineyards and Wines
SKYHAVEN Wines was recommended by another winery on a recent visit to Willcox AVA and very much appreciated. Spoke to Bridget on the phone, setting up the time and date for the visit. Upon driving down several “dirt & gravel” roads, I had no idea what to expect. Drove in cold and I was instantly warmed up by their radiant personalities, open hospitality and sincere desire to produce outstanding wines.
Met with Chris Brinkmeyer, who is trained and earned his viticulture and enology degree from Yavapai College. He spent time working at Pillsbury Wine Company honing his craft. You know he has a twist on producing wines as rather than calling himself the winemaker, he goes by The Wine Shepherd. Once into our conversation, it made perfect sense as his belief is that “great wine isn’t manufactured, it’s guided. Coaxed. Listened to”.
His life partner is Bridget Hildebrand who also has a unique title as CPKO (Chief Pants Kicking Officer)! While a bit lighthearted, Bridget spent 25 plus years in building brands in the tech industry and traveling about the world tasting wines indigenous to various areas. Bridget handles the marketing, manages the tasting rooms and is the glue holding these various pieces together.
Just by the self-anointed job titles, this is no ordinary winery! While appearing lighthearted, their work ethic and determination is at a higher level. While only being in their second year, they have won awards at both the prestigious 2026 San Francisco Chronicle and Arizona Governor’s Cup wine competition. For a newbie wine company, this shows the dedication to their craft. Well done Chris and Bridget, the future is extremely bright for you.
Their property is ten acres with seven and half planted in vines. Each of their wines are all small lot with limited and controlled batches.
The name Skyhaven Vineyards and Winery is a long name, suffice it say it is easy to understand with the sky pictures taken the afternoon of my visit.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery’s focus is on French, Spanish, and Italian varietals grown on the high-desert Willcox Bench. Their current lineup includes 2023 Syrah, 2023 Pandemonium blend (43% Grenache, 43% Mourvèdre, 14% Syrah), 2025 Viognier and 2025 Spectre Rosé. While all these wines are solid wines, their award-winning wines include:
2023 Cabernet Franc – 2026 San Francisco Gold Medal Winner
2023 Mourvèdre – 2026 San Francisco Silver Medal Winner
2023 Artificer Petit Verdot – 2026 San Francisco Silver Medal Winner
They have also received awards from the Arizona Governor’s Wine Competition.
When in Willcox and now Bisbee, where they opened a new tasting room stopping by and tasting their wines will be a real treat. If you get a chance to meet Chris and Bridget, you will be enthralled and wines will taste even better.
If you can’t attend either of those locations, they are scheduled to be at the SanTan Art and Wine Festival October 31st to November 1st, 2026, at 2218 E Williams Field Road, Suite 235, Gilbert, AZ in the Phoenix area.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2009 Progeny Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Selection Reserve. Elixir For a King!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The last time I tasted this wine was back in the spring of 2016. I purchased a couple of bottles, and it was past due to drink. Opened it up and had morphed into something extremely exquisite and almost heavenly. When I tasted it back in 2016, I stated from a previous story “one of the best wines” tasted! When tasting it in 2016, here was my review “first release of Special Selection Reserve (SSR), a 2009 Progeny 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This was the winner! Only 100 cases were produced. This wine was aged in French oak barrels for 30 months and then aged 2 years in bottle before release. This was perhaps one of the darkest and most voluptuous Cabs I have come across in years. This was described as “a mouth filling wine of power and elegance” and I can only second that statement”. That statement still held true when tasting it the other evening. This 2009 was rated at 98 points and when doing a search for this vintage, it showed pricing ranging from $397 to $497/bottle. The wine came in 15.2%.
The current vintage today is 2019 and is listed at $250/bottle and was rated at 96 points.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
My wife prepared a creative dish of Udon noodles and filet mignon. The filet mignon was cut up into bite size pieces and tenderized then marinated in Chaka sauce sauteed with onion and garlic. Broccoli and Udon noodles were added to the skillet then tossed with a soy sauce mixed with cornstarch. Topped with sesame seeds. The meat was extremely enjoyable and the Udon noodles and sauce is always good. A very unique and delicious meal. The wine was a godsend with this meal. An extremely solid food and wine pairing.
The Winery
The property today verses 2016 (picture below)
The vineyard is located at 1032 Mount Veeder Road, Napa California. Betty O’Shaughnessy and Paul Woolls, wanted to take their experience with O’Shaughnessy Winery one step further and purchased the land which had been a cattle farm since 1885.
While predominate plantings are Cabernet Sauvignon the also have Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and St Macaire on the property. They also have a small portion planted in Grenache, Mourvedre and Counoise grapes.
Picture taken in 2016 Photo ©Michael Kelly
The property is situated on a pristine Mt Veeder property. They have 260 acres with only 32 planted in vineyards. At first glance, you might think of yourself back in the “ode sod” of Ireland. The hillsides were strikingly green with the recent rains.
Picture taken in 2016 Photo ©Michael Kelly
Additionally, they enlisted the “stars” of O’Shaughnessy to put Progeny on the map. Sean Capiaux continues as winemaker, Alan Pierson once again is turning the vineyards into framed artwork.
They were under construction of their production facility when I originally visited which was completed in August 2016. Their hospitality building started in the summer of 2016 and was completed in the fall of 2017.
Their wines are limited to Trinity Blanc, Marsanne 42%, Roussanne 35%, Viognier 23% a gorgeous and mouth feeling white wine; Trinity Rouge, Syrah 50%, Grenache 27%, Mourvèdre 20%, Counoise 3%; Mt Veeder Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 90%, Merlot 4%, Malbec 3%, St. Macaire 2% & Cabernet Franc 1% and their very Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon using 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.
I need to revisit the next trip to Napa Valley to see the transformation of the vineyard, tasting room and winery.
If you are looking for one of the best representations of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, this is one surely to consider for that special occasion.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwines.com
https://arizonawinesandwineries.com
Bodega Pierce Visit at Willcox AVA
This was the last stop on my three-day visit to the Willcox AVA district. While the last stop, it was the first one recommended by friends in Mesa to visit but timing worked out to be the last stop. Met with Dan and Barbara Pierce who are a fountain of knowledge regarding the Willcox bench, water issues and the history of the area.
The vineyard and tasting room in Willcox is at 4511 E Robb Road. Here on their property of 80 acres with 27 acres under vines at 4,200 feet elevation they produce 18 varietals. They include Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Malvasia Bianca, Muscat of Alexandria, Zinfandel and Graciano. While knowing of their Cabernet Franc, which they have entered the annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, I was taken back by their offerings of varieties.
Photo from Bodega Pierce
They purchased the property in 2011 that was an existing winery with vineyards planted in 2005. They did an extensive rejuvenation and expansion of the vineyard and opened the tasting room in 2014. Currently they are producing approximately 2500 cases a year.
Their other tasting room and the production winery is in Clarkdale, Arizona at 1341 W State Route 89 A, about halfway between Sedona and Prescott Valley. Dan and Barbara’s son, Michael is their winemaker. Michael studied winemaking at UC Davis and Washington State University. Michael has a distinguished pedigree starting out head winemaker at Stronghold Vineyard (2010-2014), Director of Enology (2014-2018) & Director of Viticulture & Enology (2018-2025) at Yavapai College and now is at Yavapai College, University of Arizona adjunct faculty working on a variety of activities regarding commercial horticulture. His background is very extensive as well as being the head winemaker of Bodegas Pierce. His work was acknowledged by Wine Business Monthly in 2020 as Bodega Pierce being named Hot Brands of the year.
Barbara is currently the immediate past president of the Arizona Wine Growers Association and still active in political water right discussions. Dan also is extremely involved in the water rights for Willcox AVA and provided some keen insights into the water perspective.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The AVA length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 8,000 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. The highest mountain peak is in the northeast at 8,100 feet. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The conversation started out like a few previous ones with other wineries discussing the AMA (Active Management Area) that was designated by the Arizona Department of Water Resources to preserve groundwater supplies, address land subsidence and stop earth fissures caused by over-extraction. The issue for Willcox AVA, that being registering for well water rights as to obtain water, everyone must drill wells to a depth of 420 feet. There is conflict with the valley ranchers who reportedly have an estimated one million to one million and a half head of cattle consuming an extraordinary amount of water. The cattle ranches are “gobbling” up land to increase their ranches and herds. Grape growers in the AVA use a fraction of the water but are strictly regulated. The irrigation freeze (with some wineries grandfathered) prohibits entirely new acreage being planted. Landowners can only irrigate acres there were legally watered between 2019 and 2024. The crux of the issue is that lactating cows consume 25-35 gallons of water per day, beef cows 6-15 gallons per day and bulls require 10-15 gallons per day year-round. Vineyards in the heat of the summer require 5-8 gallons and with a drip system can get by with only 2 gallons a day, being watered 2-3 times a week. With vineyards being dormant in the winter there is a large disparity in consumption with the wineries being shortchanged in this archaic and uneven handed mandated ruling by the government.
Bodega Pierce Wine Tasting
Being caught up in the rich and presently dynamic history of the AVA, we ran out of time to really do any extensive tasting of their wines. I asked Dan and Barbara to pick out three of their favorites as time was running short and only got one picture of three tasted.
The first wine tasted was the 2025 Chardonnay that was surprisingly intriguing and delicious. I had tried a few this visit, but this was distinct and of high quality. I asked Dan what clone they used and he later got back to me stating that their Chardonnay block had clones 04, 76 and 95 planted. I didn’t get the percentage of each clone, but the quality was similar to many Chardonnay’s in California. Clone 4, known as the Wente clone, represents about 80% of the Chardonnay vineyards in California. Upon tasting the wine, all the key characteristics were spot on for the visual, aroma, taste and finish. It received all high marks and rated highly.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dan was especially fond of this 2024 wine which is not a common varietal. The first thing noticed upon the pour was the extremely powerful aromatics from the glass of floral and tropical fruits. This was light to medium viscosity with clarity in the vessel. A great summertime wine with light fruit, salads and light seafood. This grape varietal also goes by the names of Muscat d’ Alexandrie or Gordo Blanco. Again this made all positive marks across the board and rated very high.
The 2023 vintage was selected for tasting. And once again made all high marks for key characteristics and rated very high on my scoring.
Because of the engaging and thoughtful conversation of the visit, wine tasting actually took a back seat. Tasting never should have been secondary but we were caught up in the discussion beyond just their winery including the entire AVA, the industry, the International Cab Franc Competition, judging and many other topics. A return trip is in order and most likely be at their Clarkdale facility.
I would highly recommend stopping at the Willcox AVA tasting room and meeting two knowledgeable wine folks with a passion for not only their wines, but Arizona wines in general. And please allow enough time to enjoy their wines!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2023 Dracaena Wines Cabernet Franc – The Golden Standard?
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
I have known the owners of Dracaena Wines, Michael & Lori Budd, for ten years and their wines were good at the beginning and simply have morphed over the years to being excellent. Last night pulled a 2023 Dracaena Cabernet Franc to go with our dinner. Could not have been more pleased.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Upon the first sip I knew I was in for a treat. First on the eyes, a beautifully colored ruby and crimson coloring with medium viscosity. On the nose just a faint hint of pyrazines (bell pepper) but mostly fresh raspberry and red cherries with violet and rose petals wafting into the senses. Once in the palate, this dark and inviting elixir provided a symphony of flavors. Dominant was blackberry flavors following closely by a soft and caressing blueberry for a soft and friendly sip. A minimal percentage of oak and tannins were noticeable while the wine playfully engulfed the mouth. Surprisingly the structure and body was at a premier level for a wine costing only $42/bottle. The finish was smooth and velvety, lingering for enjoyable moments begging for another savory sip.
The wine is about 97% Cabernet Franc from 3% co-fermented Tannat. The wine was 14.5% alcohol. This will make my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for 2026. Roughly only 2-4% of the 2,000 wines tasted during the year make this list. That list is published mid-December.
At the 7th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, the 2023 Dracaena Cabernet Franc received a Gold Medal from the Professional Judges. Over the years they typically received Gold, Double Gold and/or Best of Category. Just like their Weimaraner dogs, this is a pure bred wine. Double Gold in SF Chronicle and 92 points from Decanter.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Being that it was raining and “cold” at 72 degrees (first time seeing a 70-degree reading since moving to Arizona!), a wintertime comfort food was in order this evening. Especially to watch Monday Night Football. My wife, Susan, baked up a recent favorite Poblano Pepper Casserole. Ingredients included poblano peppers, vegetable oil, chopped white onion, jalapeno pepper, minced garlic, ground beef, cut yellow & red bell peppers, black beans, fire roasted tomatoes, corn kernels, shredded cheddar cheese, red pepper flakes, chili powder, dried oregano, ground cumin, kosher salt, black pepper and white rice. The casserole is delicious and spicey but not hot.
Each bite of the casserole combined with fruit of the wine, made a delicious meal. A great winter dinner, be it cool or cold!
The Winery
Their tasting room at 1244 Pine Street, Suite 101B in Paso Robles, located just off the downtown square. Michael and Lori behind the bar serving guests on a typical weekend.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Michael and Lori started Dracaena wines 14 years ago and while searching for a “living memorial” for their first Weimaraner dog, they named their winery Dracaena. While researching for a name, they found the name Dracaena tree, more commonly referred to as a Draco tree. Draco was the name of their dog. Today they have another Weimaraner dog named Bowen happily greeting everyone that comes to the tasting room, which is dog friendly. One of the reasons they have and continue to make excellent wines is their combined backgrounds. Michael today is a food chemist and Lori was a microbiologist.
Over the years we have held many conversations. One of the more noteworthy was about two years ago when discussing some of the high dollars levels Cabernet Franc had ballooned to. Lori stated clearly, they wanted to make an exquisite Cabernet Franc at an affordable price level. They have accomplished both a quality wine and a price value driven wine.
Currently, while still a small boutique and artisan winery, they produce Cordyline Rosé, Chenin Blanc, Blanc de Blanc, Cinnabari (Bordeaux blend) and Phoenix (Mourvedre & Syrah blend). With their Cabernet Franc lineup of both the Classic Cabernet Franc and Metz Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc. I have purchased and tasted them all except their Blanc de Blanc and every one, once again, coming in at a high standard.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
A Very Special 1998 Dehesa 14 La Granja and Carne Asada
Background
Purchased a couple of bottles years ago (2013) and have been “resting them” since in the cellar. It was already past optimum time to open, so wanted to enjoy one of them tonight with a specially prepared carne asada steak presentation.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
What makes this wine “special” is that Dehesa 14 spends an exorbitant amount of time maturing. First aged in oak barrels for 24 months and a minimum of 14 years in the bottle resting in the stone caves of the winery before being released. The wine is stored in hand hewed solid rock cave carved from 1750 to 1767. The wine being classified as a Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León unshackles the D.O. rules of the area. Having the freedom to age a total of 16 years (two in barrel & fourteen in bottle) allows them to release at its peak complexity.
First on the eyes a deep ruby almost black color with full body. On the nose, dark cherry with ripe plum were dominant. A hint of espresso and black licorice. On the palate, eucalyptus, dark fruits and oak tannins with structure being noted. On the finish, a lush mouth feel coupled with oak and aged leather. The overall tasting experience with this aged wine provides complexity beyond compare! Tobacco, vanilla, coffee, dates and black cherries all come into play as tertiary aromas and flavors.
The 1998 Dehesa 14 comes from 100% Tempranillo grapes from Zamora, Castilla y León Spain and crafted by Alejandro Fernández. Today they no longer age it 14 years in bottle before release and have gone to 10 years, still a special wine. The original price for 1998 at release was $75. Other labels of the Familia Fernández Rivera group of wines retail up to $225/bottle.
It is easy to state this would be on my annual Best Wines of 2026.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a special Carne Asada. The flank steak was tenderized and marinated 12 hours with the following ingredients: olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, fresh chopped cilantro leaves, minced jalapeño peppers with seeds, minced garlic cloves, ground cumin, Kosher salt, ground black pepper. Mesquite seasoning was then added to steak and seared on the BBQ with an infrared ceramic burner at 1500 degrees for about 8 minutes a side. Served with minced cilantro, fresh extra marinade sauce and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice and topped with cilantro. Accompanying the meal was toasted Mexican Street corn recipe using butter, kosher salt, mayonnaise, lime juice, chili powder, cilantro and topped with Cotija cheese. A fresh garden salad with bacon was also served.
The Carne Asada was flavorful and served medium rare with the extra sauce topping off the meat.
The Winery
The winery is on an 800-hectare estate along the Guareña River in Zamora, Castilla-León.
Alejandro Fernández (1932-2021) known as the King of Tempranillo and helped put the Ribera del Duero region as one of the best regions for wine in the world. His legacy continues through the Familia Fernández Rivera, a large wine, hospitality and agricultural projects. Tinto Pesquera (Ribera del Duero) was founded in 1972 inside a 16th century stone press is considered by most the flagship estate. The focus is 100% Tempranillo (Tinta del País). Robert Parker praised the Tinto Pesquera Janus as the “Petrus of Spain”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Another winery, established in 1994 near the Duero River features single-estate Tempranillo vineyards. Lastly, Dehesa La Granja (Zamora) acquired in 1998 in the Castilla y León producing their age worthy red wines and produce in the area such as cheese, chickpeas and EVOO.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
The Wine Club of Greater Phoenix Met Last Night
A spectacular evening last night with exciting Pinot Noir wines from around the world, tasty appetizers and stimulating conversations – what could be better?
The hosts of this month’s event were Greg and Karen at their home in Scottsdale. The theme was for Pinot Noir wines from around the world, specifically France, Oregon, California and the Rest of the World. Each person or couple brought a bottle of wine covered in a brown bag to be numbered. Greg and Karen as hosts provided two bottles. Each person was given a sheet of paper with appropriate columns and rows to list next to the bottle number, the region, cost being < or > than $50 and any wine tasting notes or observations. Once the brown bags were removed, here was the lineup:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was done while enjoying appetizers that were paired appropriately with Pinot Noir wines that each guest brought. Those included prepared pork tenderloin pieces in a raspberry and chipotle sauce, smoked gouda cheese squares, baked Brie cheese topped with honey and toasted walnuts served with multigrain crackers, and baked Brie cheese with diced three different mushrooms sauteed with a Pinot Noir reduction and served with toast baguette with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Once the bottles were revealed another sip was taken to taste with the same or different appetizers to determine if it made a difference.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We then adjourned to the dining room where the balance of the appetizers were placed and joined with a gorgeous smoked salmon and a delicious harvest salad that Greg and Karen prepared for the evening. Some further conversations on the wines, but really a lot more topics getting to know each other.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
All the wines were winners with price points and locations varying widely, and all were decidedly enjoyable. Can’t wait until next month’s get together and theme.
Cheers,
Michael Kelly
1764 Vineyards Located in Pearce in Southern Willcox AVA
Background
You know a winery named 1764 must be unique and original. When pressed how and why the name came about, Bob and Jules Dixon the owners of the winery, provided their insight to the name. The winery and their tasting room are located at 357 W. Treasure Road, Pearce, Arizona. Jules’s major and education was in pre-Revolution history. In 1764 the British Parliament passed the Sugar Act, imposing duties on sugar and molasses imported to the American colonies from non-British sources. This helped solidify the formal protestation of “no taxation without representation”, sparking early colonial resistance that became the groundwork for the American Revolution and independence. This following the Boston Tea Party in 1773. The Sugar Act was a tax on many items as depicted in the London Chronicle printed in 1764. Far more to the story on their name and I would direct you to their website to read.
from the London Chronicle 1764
Their 30 acre property is located just east of Cochise Stronghold in the southeastern Arizona’s Dragoon Mountains.
National Parks Service Picture
These rugged mountains rising to 7,000 feet elevations about the Willcox bench of 4,500 avg elevation, served as a natural fortress for the Apache Chief Cochise during the resistance against the U.S. Army in 1860’s and 1870’s. Cochise ran a brilliant and daring guerrilla campaign from these spires and narrow ravines with secret lookouts with up to 1,000 Apache Indians eluding capture. These mountains are the backdrop for the winery and may be symbolic of a small winery being successful.
The winery was recommended to me for a visit by several folks in the community. Bob started out in Iowa and subsequently moved to the East Valley of Phoenix. Their background was admittedly one of being not big wine drinkers. The attended the 2010 Willcox Wine Festival and “caught the wine bug”. Shortly thereafter in 2021 they were at the Cottonwood Harvest Festival and had a long discussion on the next phase of the lives, as they were soon to be empty nesters. They wanted to rebel a bit from sitting back in their recliners and decided starting a winery was the direction to move towards. Jules attended Yavapai Colleges’ Verde Valley campus to receive her enology degree in 2019. During her time at Yavapai, they found land that was cleared and began planting grapes in 2018. Their grown children also relocated to Cochise county working alongside Bob and Jules in developing the winery. In September of 2020 their winery was officially launched.
The Winery Today
Picture from visit https://www.vacationrenter.com/
Today they are eagerly producing handcrafted and artisan wines infused with the same spark and energy that helped found the American independence. They offer Petit Verdot, Picpoul Blanc, Vermentino, Syrah, Riesling, Malbec, Mourvedre and Sagrantino. They have received at the 2026 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition a Gold Medal for their 2021 Syrah called the Vixen. Additionally, they have won various awards from the Arizona Wine Growers Association.
We spent a lot of time discussing the Willcox AVA, wine competitions, and discussing a wide range of topics. As the time passed, we hardly had time to try the wines! We did settle on tasting a few of them.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Jules’s favorite is her new “Orange wine”, appropriately name Jules T 2023 Amber Riesling. She is especially pleased making this wine in the traditional format and time-consuming method orange wines require for their flavor and with beautiful coloring. Her description of the wine as having “fresh herbs dazzle the nose. On the palate, this crisp and refreshing wine offers up a balanced blend of citrus pith, minerality, and hints of mild tea flavor”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
My favorite from the tasting was their 2023 Petit Verdot “Star Rider” made with 100% Petit Verdot grapes. This is listed at $40/bottle and received my highest rating of the tastings. On the eyes a truly radiant purple and magenta in color, on the nose aromas of black fruits and plums with violets. On the palate, black fruits provided layers of enjoyment, depth and provocative thinking. On the finish the mellow earthiness of the AVA terroir finished off each satisfying sip.
They are working on a few other creative and unique wines that are available when visiting.
Bob and Jules were perhaps the most interesting, intelligent and creative people I met on the visit to Willcox AVA. While being a bit “out of the way”, the trip was rewarded in their wines and getting to know them. Look for this small winery to continue to make an impression and win awards.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com