Visit to Birds and Barrels Vineyard in Willcox AVA in Arizona
Background
As a wine writer and a recent transplant to Arizona, I knew there were roughly 150 plus wineries in Arizona, with approximately 80% of all the wines produced using Willcox grapes. Decided I needed to understand the area and ventured off to meet a few of the wineries/winemakers and of course taste the wines. Surprisingly I have not been able to find many of the Arizonan wines in local bottle shops or retail stores.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 9,759 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
photo by Karen Fasimpaur from Portal
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The Winery – Birds and Barrels Vineyards
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery was founded by Chad and Monica Preston in 2015. Previously they were in real estate in the Phoenix area and had a goal to produce artisan wines. They harvest their grapes by hand, and carefully handle all the pressing and winemaking functions. They believe this is critical in maintaining high-quality wines which they take great pride in producing.
The vineyard is comprised of 15 acres planted in a variety of grapes with Birds and Barrels consuming all their grapes with no selling off of their grapes to other wineries. The mix of grapes are roughly 40% white and 60% red grape varieties. Their current wine releases include a wide assortment: Dolcissimo (Symphony), Malbec, Petit Verdot, Rosé (Syrah), Vino Bianco (Riesling & Chardonnay), Riesling, Chardonnay, SBR (Tannat, Petit Verdot, Malbec), Syrah Batch (Sirah/Shiraz), Grenache, Petit Manseng, Tempranillo, Over and Under Blend (Malbec & Syrah) and a few other blends.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We met at their vineyard location which is a large room that can be utilized for a variety of events with one side being glass with a beautiful view of vineyards, the playa and mountains in the distance. The Vineyard being located at 5000 E Arzberger Road and their in-town tasting is located at 100 N Railroad Ave in downtown Willcox.
Far too many wines to taste at one sitting but we were able to taste and discuss six wines with each of them approachable and easy drinking. Two wines of those tasted stood out as being exceptionally delicious. There were the Over and Under (Malbec & Syrah) and SBR blend.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2021 Over and Under Blend hit all the key points of my evaluation on the eyes, the nose/aromas, taste and finish. Easy sipping, with rounded and caressing tannins, blueberry and mocha notes with a lovely soft finish having just a modicum of sweetness with a 50/50 blend of Malbec and Syrah.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This non-vintage SBR red wine of 60% Tannat, 20% Petit Verdot, and 20% Malbec. As it turns out this is Monica’s favorite in their line up (if you can have a “favorite child”). They describe it as a “Super Bold Red”. Once again, it hit all my evaluation marks for on the eyes showing a clean and radiant coloring, on the nose with aromas of beautiful dark fruits with corresponding tastes and with the finish being a soft landing with tannins that were silky smooth.
Once tasting their wines, it is very understandable to comprehend their slogan “refinement in a bottle”.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com